英语PK台 第328期:伦敦高端时装设计师珀西·吉尔伯特

 　　Track One

　　Suits for the politicians and the business people
　　西装是专为政商人士设计的
　　You had companies like ‘Shepard's and Anderson' who designed for Prince Charles
　　也有像“Shepard's and Anderson”这样专为查尔斯王子设计着装的公司
　　That's what it was – it was all about being a gentleman and how you presented yourself
　　这就是西装的全部意义——做一名绅士以及用怎样的形象示人。
　　It was a real lifestyle – form of communicating who you are
　　这是一种真正的生活方式——告诉人们你是谁
　　Fashion changed in Britain
　　时装在英国改变了许多
　　It was really in the ‘60's with brands like Ben Sherman, the whole Portobello Road and Carnaby Street
　　是上世纪60年代，随着像Ben Sherman这样的品牌兴起，整个Portobello路和Carnaby街也随之兴盛繁荣起来
　　That movement that took off – and the whole Mod movement really shaped British fashion
　　整个运动方兴未艾——可以说整个现代时尚运动真正塑造了英国的时尚
　　The Beatles in their skinny suits with their hair
　　那个时代，披头士们穿着他们的精致修身的小西服，留着披头士的发型
　　The whole colourful shirt thing – my old teacher – he had a shop on King's Road – his name was Stephen King - he became quite famous in dressing 1 people in bright psychedelic shirts
　　还有那些花色款的衬衣——我曾经的老师——他在国王大街有个店面——他叫 Sephen King——他后来很有名，因为他很会以鲜亮迷人的衬衫来打扮他的客人。
　　It was a whole lifestyle – people really bought into and lived
　　时装也是一个完整的生活方式——人们真正选择购买并与之长期生活在一起的东西，这就是生活方式
　　How do you train somebody to be a designer?
　　怎样培训设计师？
　　I remember telling my teacher at school I wanted to apply for London School of Fashion – and started doing all this drawing
　　我曾记得我告诉我的老师我想申请就读伦敦时尚学校——然后开始画各种图
　　There was something naturally there with me
　　某些东西我与生俱来
　　It worked and I got in
　　这种天分很有效而且我全然领会，我成功进入了那所学院。
　　They try and build up your skills, build up your understanding
　　他们（学校）塑造你的技能，塑造你对时装的理解能力
　　There is a lot to fashion designing that I think a lot of people do not understand
　　我认为关于时装设计的很多事情，其实很多人都不是真的理解。
　　It involves society
　　它包含着社会因素
　　And when you work for big companies it involves the economy, what's happening – it can even involve politics
　　当你为大公司工作时这其中也包括经济因素，所有周围正在发生的一切——甚至也包括政治因素
　　I worked across both men's and women's wear
　　我的工作贯穿男装及女装领域
　　Studied women's wear at London College of Fashion and menswear in Sussex.
　　我在伦敦时尚学院学的女装专业，在苏赛克斯学了男装专业。
　　Track Two
　　I managed to work with a very famous designer Alexander McQueen
　　我得以有机会和一位非常知名的设计师Alexander McQueen一起工作
　　He was very successful, very talented designer
　　他真是一名很成功且很有天赋的设计师
　　Even although I was doing a menswear degree, when I met him I worked on women's wear
　　尽管我当时正在修男装学位，遇到他以后，我开始着手于女装的工作
　　Once you know how to design you can design pretty much anything
　　一旦你懂得怎样设计，你几乎就能够设计任何东西
　　When I was a student I met him during Graduate Fashion Week and I said I would really love to work for you
　　当我还是学生的时候，我在”毕业时装周”上遇到了他，并且告诉他我真的很想和他一起共事。
　　He took me really seriously and gave me this metal business card
　　他很认真地考虑了，并给了我这张金属质感的名片
　　I sent in my CV and next week they called me in “Please work on a piece with one of our designers' for ‘Days and Confused' magazine.
　　我呈报了我的CV，第二个星期，他们给我打了电话，邀我与他们 ‘Days and Confused' 杂志的一位设计师一起参与一个共同设计的环节。
　　And then it just grew from there – a piece went into the V&A Museum
　　设计逐渐成型，成熟——其中一个作品进入了V&A博物馆
　　Fashion has a lot of tension 2, a lot of pressure – it is a very competitive 3 industry
　　时装业有着紧张的气氛，也有很多的压力，令人紧绷——是一个竞争激烈的行业
　　Working with Alexander McQueen – we had a similar background- he was from the East End there was just something about us, we just clicked
　　和Alexander McQueen一起工作——我们有很多相似的背景——他来自伦敦东部，我们有相同之处，一拍即合。
　　Other students were very scared of him – he was very strict
　　其他的学生很惧怕他——因为他很严厉
　　They invited me to Givenchy in Paris
　　他们邀请我去巴黎的纪梵希
　　I worked on one of the main couture collections
　　我负责一套主要的成衣设计
　　I also worked all night with McQueen and another guy, who at the time I did not realise who he was
　　我同时也和McQueen以及另一个同事整晚工作，我当时不知道那个同事是何许人也
　　The day before the show we went to the venue 4 in a taxi
　　时装秀当天，我们乘出租车去了会场
　　We worked the whole night- we were drinking some champagne 5 at the same time
　　我们工作了整晚，同时我们也喝了些香槟
　　It was only in the morning that I realised who I had been talking with
　　直到早上我才意识到和我一起工作聊天的人是谁
　　The guy said "My name is Philip"
　　他说“我名叫Philip”
　　"You are a hat designer – are you Philip Tracy?"
　　“你是帽子设计师——就是那个 Philip Tracy？”